Irene Lentz-Gibbons 1943 Smock
Mar 3rd, 2009 | By Gidget | Category: Patterns, ProjectsI love old movies. I watch two channels on tv: Turner Classic Movies and lately – Discovery Science. (I used to be an HGTV addict – but those days are Gone With the Wind!) Whenever I watched an old movie and was inspired by the costumes, they were almost always designs by Edith Head or Irene.
Since Slobo has a handy recorder setup to capture images from the TV, I decided this was the year to figure out what exactly it is that draws me to Irene’s designs. With just capturing the first images, it dawned on me that I like (and sorely miss) the dressmaker details. For giggles, I decided to practice my patternmaking skills and replicate items for either myself or my doll figure. #1 is the smock that Claudette Colbert wears, in her photo-developing lab, in the movie ‘No Time For Love’ (1943) :
Here is a raglan draft from http://www.vintagesewing.info:

Here is a strap shoulder and it’s draft:


The trim appears to be sewn in between the seam, continued on the back yoke portion, and abt. 1/4″ inside from the seam allowance on the collar.
The entire pattern body of the garment seams to be cut & spread by about 4″s beginning up into the front yoke. This spread is readily seen here:

The armhole is also cut deeper as you can see under the arm here:

and here:
I’m not sure about that bunching at the back of the armpit.
I love the large buttons (7 of them) and the pockets flaps that gradually angle down.

These appear to be lined patch pockets with a fold-down facing.
It seems there is a facing on the inside. Granted, Claudette Colbert is wearing this over a fitted suit with pretty hefty shoulder pads. But here I can barely see the outline of what might be a facing in the back yoke portion (see arrow):

Here’s my take on what the pattern must be like. It’s details like this that make we want to own a smock like this!

(one of these days I’ll learn to do these posts inside of five edits!)






Hello there,
Irene is my great-aunt and I enjoyed coming across your post here today about one of her designs for Miss Colbert. Best wishes to you,
Karlyn
Hi Karlyn,
I ran into a post you did about your Great-Aunt Irene a few weeks ago. I was really glad to see that you posted about her. She was an incredible designer and impeccable technician. She certainly deserves ALOT more credit for her designs than she ever received.
Thank you for posting a comment, I appreciate it very much!
Very Best Wishes to You, Karlyn.
Gidget
btw… You look remarkably like her!