Today, I cut two versions of the Paisley Pincushion Nightgown.

Before I share that here’s some fun:

Did you know you too could own a Zoom-O bobbin winder? You can play AND wind a bobbin for the cost of only 10.00 at Wally World!

Of course, the kids might fight you for it!

Speaking of kids. Here are pics of my ‘unsuccessful’ attempt at sneaking downstairs today. The three J’s followed me down. It was too cold for them to play outside for long and Daddy needed to concentrate. His “if you want to keep your job” project is due in the morning, so he was feeling just a ‘little’ pressure today.

I keep boxes (color-coded) under my cutting tables of scraps from previous projects. The kids and I pull from them when we wanna play. Today – they decided to tailor some clothing for the family while I cutting.

After making small stapled pockets and purses – they turned their attention to their favorite fit model, Stitches!

I’m not sure he appreciated his new clothes – but his outfits were stunning!

Now for the Pattern Notes:
Let me say right off that I DO like this pattern. It seems these ladies have some notion of pattern making – more so than a big three pattern.
What I like:
I like the white paper, the overall pattern making skills shown, and the handwritten labeling (nice touch).
What I don’t like:
There were some things I’d like different, for instance nesting the sizes.
If not nesting – then at least color coded lines for cutting. It was hard to follow sizing lines.

See what I mean from the above picture? It’s confusing to figure out which one is for your size. Do-able obviously, but still, confusing. If you want to make multiple sizes and keep your pattern readable – you MUST trace it – not cut it.

Since I make clothes for family (different sizes) it’s a pain to trace – that’s why I don’t just haul out my drafting blocks and make my own patterns all the time. Sometimes, I just wanna pay 12 to 20 bucks and be able to cut it with a few minor changes. I don’t think I should have to pay for all the extra paper or to interface the pattern to keep separate sizes.

With that said, I am willing to pay more for a pattern I liked, like this one, if the pattern-maker could make it in different colors or it took more pages. At least when patterns are nested, I can save the cut pieces and just tape on the next size in two minutes and be ready to go. Not to mention that it seems every two years, I am making the next size up for all of us!

— okay —- enough of that

In the following photos, I show my own personal block I made a few months ago, compared to the pattern. My block is not drafted with easements or seam allowances. Mine is shown in the following photos underneath the pattern tissue. It aids in addressing changes I need to make.

In general, this pattern is drafted more accurately than most of the patterns I’ve run into. The shoulder extensions tho do seem a bit longer, tho for both front and back. I’m not sure that my underarm won’t end up parallel to my bust point.

The usual changes I need to make for the front are:
My shoulder ridge slopes more than the average – an extra 1 1/4″. In order to be more comfortable, I also like a deeper armsyce. Not too many pattern-makers get the armsyce correct for the average figure. This one came the closest. At least there is a definite difference between front and back!

Here are the differences on the back piece:

—- Okay – one more complaint here (even tho minor) —-
See – they spoiled me because they made a full pattern piece for the front. The back tho, is a half-back. I don’t know why that was done – other than for clarification on the front placket piece, but I’d like to have the full back too. lol. See here:

I liked the sleeve draft. The biggest issue again, was lack of cutting line clarification. I almost cut the wrong sleeve size at the top, but caught myself an 1/8″ into the wrong cut and was able to fix it back easily enough.

The Sleeve length was spot on! Way to Go!

Now, it is difficult – really difficult, to hand draft those scallops and have them neatly line up. I’ve done it for a bedjacket I sell. So – for the scallops I give great big kudos!!!

The pattern / fabric layout reference sheet only shows front / back and sleeves. It doesn’t show the 5 additional pieces, like these (not a big deal for me because I knew there should be something else there, but a novice might be really caught off guard on that one) BTW – These pieces ARE accounted for in the yardage requirements. So you won’t get caught on that.

Speaking of getting caught off guard. I buy most of the family’s clothing fabric needs at bargain bins, so I do expect problems. I hadn’t noticed this one before tho. The kitty fabric (2.00 a yard at Wal-Mart), was sold as 44/45″ yardage, but in actuality it measured 42 and 1/2″ wide, which really messed up the scalloping at the lowest edge for me (YES – the big girl size!)

So, if you make this pattern – it’s probably a good idea to either set yourself up to have to deal with by adding some, changing the pattern, or heck – just go out and buy yourself some of that really nice fabric! After all, when you buy a top of the line pattern for yourself – why not treat it to some gorgeous – evenly woven – fabric!

I cut a rosey pink solid flannel (44″ btw) with changes to the armsyce and shoulder ridge – and this kitty cat flannel using the unmodified original pattern. I couldn’t get to sewing it up today and have to be at Mom’s the next couple of days, but when I get them sewn, I’ll report back on the fit. Besides being a record for me, I hope this helps another soul out there.

UPDATE: 10/01/09 It only took me 9 months to get around to sewing these (all great things take 9 months, right?) and another month to take pictures of them (sheesh – sounds more and more like newborns), but here they are.

I disliked the placket instructions but beared with them for the pink gown. When I got to the kitty gown however, I just went my own way. I used a velvet ribbon trim from Walmart for the neckline. It’s worked out well and looks beautiful despite constant washings.

On this one, you can really see where the shortage of a few inches really affected the scallops. Next time, I’ll just cut them off like I did for the pink gown. Even tho I was not short on the pink flannel, I had lost time and patience with sewing, turning, and pressing scallops. Enter – Big Sheers and a more peaceful day of sewing.

They are super comfy and I have already purchased enough cottons to make 3 more for next summer, after all in August it will be 9 more months….. Here’s hoping!